Visiting Hakone was truly one of my favorite things I did in Japan. I didn’t make it the first time I visited, essentially traveling along the “Golden Route” because we focused our itinerary heavily on the 3 major big cities: Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, but I put it high on my list on my second trip and I LOVED IT!!!
Pictured: Owakudani Volcanic Valley (Great Boiling Valley)
Getting around Hakone is quite unique. Unlike Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka – and honestly any other major city in Japan (even Hiroshima and Sapporo). Your first instinct is to use google maps to get around and take the subway. But Hakone is a small town and does not have an underground subway system. The primary way to get around to the major attractions is via bus, ferry, or the ropeway. Taxis are an option too, but since Hakone is so small, they are not as abundant or easy to wave down as they are in Tokyo. You have to download a Japanese cab app (GO or DiDi) to call on or you should have your hotel help schedule you one for when you think you need one.
Pictured: Sightseeing Cruise
The Hakone Travel Pass is my personal best suggestion for transportation. You can buy it in shinjuku or at one of Hakone’s major stations. The pass works for 2-3 days depending on how long you are staying for. I recommend at least 2 days on Hakone to see the sights while also being able to use your onsen. Many onsen places are a bed and breakfast type place where you will reserve breakfast and dinner times, so you won’t be able to start your days super early because of the breakfast times. But that’s okay because the train stations/ports and many stores/restaurants aren’t open until at least 9am anyways.
Ok, so how are you going to actually get around Hakone now? Breaking down all the major stations you should know about:
- Odawara
- If you used your JR pass to get to Hakone, you would be let off here – and you would then need to buy another ticket and make a transfer to get to Hakone-Yumoto station.
- You could use this chance to pick up the Hakone Free pass which covers use of the buses, ropeway, and ferries in Hakone for 2-3 days
- Hakone-Yumoto Station
- If you bought an Odakyu ticket from Tokyo to Hakone, this is the station you would get off at
- Togendai Station
- Connects you to the sight-seeing Ferry that will take you across Lake Ashi and to the Hakone Shrine
- Connects you to the Ropeway that will take you to Owakudani
- Owakudani Station
- This is where you would get off for Owakudani
- Sounzan Station
- This is the station on the other end of Togendai. Owakudani is between Togendai and Sounzan
- Gora Station
- Can take a railway from Hakone-Yumoto Station to Gora and then transfers to go to Owakudani
Ports to know about:
- Togendai
- This is both a station for connecting to the ropeway AND a port for the ferries. That’s why it’s #1 😉
- Moto Hakone
- The port closest to Hakone Shrine
- Hakone-machi
- The farther port from Hakone Shrine. Get off here if you want to take a bit of a walk to get to Moto-Hakone (~20min).
Pictured: Onsen Breakfast at KAI Sengokuhara; Kuro-Tamago (black egg) and Charcoal Ice Cream at Owakudani; Installations at the Hakone Open-Air Museum; Hakone Shrine
Some example routes you’ll likely be going to and how to get there:
1. . Hakone Shrine
- From Togendai port: Take the Hakone Sightseeing Cruise and get off at Moto Hakone-ko.
- Can also take the Ashinko SIghtseeing Cruise but this is not covered by the Hakone Freepass
- From Hakone-Yumoto Station: Take the Hakone Tozan Bus to Moto Hakone
- Can also take the Izuhakone bus to Moto Hakone but this is not covered by the Hakone Free Pass
2. Owakudani
- You could take the bus to this one, and it might be your only option if the weather is bad. But if the weather is good, then you most definitely should take the ropeway to get here.
- From Togendai: Take the Ropeway on the way to Sounzan – get off at Owakudani
- From Hakone-Yumoto Station: Take the Hakone Tozan Railway to Gora -> Switch and get on the Hakone Tozan Cable Car to Sounzan -> Switch to the ropeway to Togendai and get off at Owakudani
3. Hakone Open-Air Museum
- Take the bus or a taxi. Nothing special here – you can use google maps for this one.
